Medium format cameras come in various shapes and sizes. The smallest size you can get is a 6×4.5cm negative or slide, and it goes all the way up to 6×9 in cameras considered “hand holdable”. There are also specialty medium format cameras that go up to 6×24! One of the largest handholdable medium format cameras is the Fuji GW690. While there are other kinds of Fuji medium format rangefinder cameras, like the GW690II, GW690III and the GW680, they all load film the same way - so this tutorial will cover those too.
To verify that the camera is in fact empty, make sure the camera shows a red “S” in the window. If it doesn’t, give it two cranks on the film winder. If the film winder stops, then there is another frame available on the roll, and you SHOULDN’T OPEN THE BACK. If the film winder keeps going without stopping, then it is safe to open the door - just make sure you give it three or four winds to make sure the roll is completely rolled up.
The frame counter shows “S”, or most often just a little past “8″ [indicating the roll has been shot], so you are ready to open the back. Flip the camera upside down and you’ll notice a little latch that opens the back. Pull it downwards and you’ll notice the door opens with an audible “click”. Notice, also, the switch to the left of the frame counter window. It is set to either “8EXP” for 120 roll film or “16EXP” for 220 roll film ["4EXP, or 120 short roll, is no longer made]. Set this to the film you will be loading before opening the back.
The first thing to look for when you open the back is the pressure plate. The most common type of medium format film, oddly enough, is the shorter, older 120 format. 220 format, which skimps on some of the paper backing in the middle of the roll [allowing twice as many photos versus 120 format], is cheaper [per photo], and requires less time changing rolls. It does have the advantage of less wasted film, though. If you load up with Velvia 50, then the light changes or it gets dark, you can change to, say, Delta 3200 after eight shots rather than sixteen [on a 6x9 camera].
After switching the pressure plate [if necessary], put the camera front-down and pull the tabs on the bottom down, away from the camera.
This will unlock the empty roll to the left from the camera’s winding mechanism. Take the roll out of the camera by pulling down on the left-hand latch and lifting the roll out. Set it down to the side, as we’ll need it to put the new film in.
Verify again the roll size you are using - 120 or 220 - then open the packaging. I’m using a roll of Ilford HP5+ ISO400 black and white print film in 120 roll film size.
You’ll see two things when you open the package. The roll of film and a piece of paper taped on. Remove the piece of paper, but make sure you leave the film identifier [the part that says "HP5" in green letters, in this case] intact. We’ll slide it into the film memo holder at a later step so we can remember the kind of film that is loaded.
The film identifier is still intact, and we’re ready to load the film. Note the cross on top: many film types only have one slot, but that’s fine. These will align with the metal winding mechanism inside the camera.
Thread the tip of the film’s paper backing through the other roll’s opening in the center. Give a little bit of slack from the loaded roll and rap the paper backing around the empty roll until it is tight - you should not be able to see any black plastic on either roll
Gently place the two rolls into the camera, as shown. Don’t try to jam it in : just leave it resting like this, we’ll load each roll one at a time.
First, pull the left-hand tab down, and then press the roll’s cross / slot on the top fits in with the winding mechanism. Push the tab in and fold it down so that it fits. Repeat the process on the right hand side.
With both tabs pulled down, the film is guaranteed to be in the camera’s winding mechanism. With the back open, wind the crank until the “START” or arrow lines up flush with the red dot [seen to the top left of "UNEXPO--" in the previous photo. Keep an eye on the dot, you don't want to go too far over or too far short [although there is a tiny bit of leeway].
Wind the film crank four or five times. The camera should now be lined up with “1″ in the frame counter window.
Shut the back of the camera, and find the film identifier slip you put to the side earlier. Tear the end off, and stick it in the memo holder in the back as shown. If you still have the box that the film came in, you can use the side of the box that has the same information. It’s a better fit, but often times I buy film in packs of 5 because it’s cheaper that don’t have the cardboard identification slips. This helps identify whether the film is color or black and white, and the ISO of the film. In this case, I’m using ISO400 black and white print film.
That’s it! You’re ready to start shooting.
This post is tagged 120, 220, film, Fujica, GW680, GW690, GW690I, GW690II, GW690III, load















5 Comments
Hey, first of all i really like what you did with that photograph BUT it’s not a replacement for the use of HDR. The problem with HDR is the way people use it not the technique itself. In your example.
Even if you expose as much until pure white appears.. there will be situations where parts of the image will still be out of detail which you can’t recover without bracketing and multi exposures.
But again I just write that because you gave it that catchy title :) Nice tutorial besides that.
I agree with seban. Maybe a title like “When you can’t do HDR,” would be better suited.
Thanks for the response, guys. What I meant to say with the title was that this is a better technique for most flickr or deviantART members who don’t know how to really use HDR. Obviously, HDR is great when used properly - but for the majority of times, multiple exposures are not necessary. I shot this photo looking straight at the area of the sky around the sun, with very little light falling on the ground. For most landscapes, at least, it’d be hard to find an area much worse than this, lighting-wise.
The reason I said “better than HDR” is that it is better than HDR in most cases. If you look on flickr, many of the HDR images appear when the scene is already quite well lit.
Thanks for taking the time to voice your concerns, though. Much appreciated!
You’re absolutely right. Although I’m guilty of liking the fake HDR colorful BAm look. Ok, I did in the past not so much this times. :)
http://www.ld-host.de/uploads/images/748ceec73044289a939d061ae4336007.jpg I tried your way on this image. Like the result. I normally take a little different approuch with curves instead of levels.
There’s some LAB Stuff in there as well. I can show you the original image if you want to.
Grazie di cuore!
In Italia (Roma) nessuno mi sapeva dire come caricare questa macchina!
GRAZIE
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